Healthy trees add value, shade, and character to a property for decades — but they need occasional attention to stay that way. Here's a general guide to keeping trees healthy year-round.
For most deciduous trees, late winter to early spring — while the tree is still dormant and before new leaf growth — is the best time for structural pruning. Dormant pruning is easier to see the tree's shape, reduces stress on the tree, and lowers the risk of spreading diseases that are more active in warmer months. Light, occasional pruning to remove dead or damaged limbs can be done any time of year; it's heavier structural work that benefits from timing.
A 2 to 4 inch layer of mulch spread in a wide ring around the base of a tree helps retain soil moisture, moderate soil temperature, and keep mowers and trimmers away from the trunk. The most common mistake is piling mulch directly against the bark (often called "volcano mulching") — this traps moisture against the trunk and can lead to rot and pest problems. Keep mulch a few inches back from the trunk itself.
Newly planted trees typically need consistent watering for their first two to three growing seasons while their root systems establish. A slow, deep soak — enough to reach the root ball — once or twice a week is generally more effective than frequent shallow watering. Mature, established trees are usually more drought-tolerant and need supplemental watering mainly during extended dry spells.
A few signs are worth keeping an eye on: large dead branches in the canopy, mushrooms or fungal growth at the base of the trunk, deep cracks or splits in the trunk or major limbs, bark that's peeling or missing in patches, and a noticeable lean that's new or getting worse. Any one of these on its own isn't necessarily an emergency, but they're all good reasons to have a professional take a look, especially if the tree is near a house, driveway, or power line.
When planting new trees, consider their mature size — both height and canopy spread — before choosing a spot. Trees planted too close to structures, driveways, or each other often need more corrective pruning down the road, and their roots can eventually affect foundations, sidewalks, and underground utility lines.
Routine mulching and watering are reasonable DIY tasks. Anything involving a ladder, a chainsaw, a tree near power lines, or a tree that's already showing signs of structural weakness is worth handing to a professional — the risks of a fall or a poorly directed cut are simply not worth it. See our tree safety practices guide for more on when it's time to call in help.